You bought a truck to get work done. You have visions of it conquering mountains of tasks, or at the very least, a few cubic yards of mulch for the garden. But that confidence can vanish in an instant when you see your suspension squatting under the weight or feel the unnerving sway of a trailer on I-35.
That sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach? That’s the cold, hard realization that every piece of metal has its breaking point. Pushing past those limits can lead to snapped axles, voided warranties, or even tragic accidents on the highway.
Understanding the crucial mechanical difference between dragging a load behind your truck and carrying it directly on its frame is what separates the seasoned pros from the dangerously uninformed. Here at Five Star Towing, we’ve seen the aftermath of overloaded vehicles on Oklahoma City roads far too many times. We’re here to help you avoid that same fate.
Key Notes
- Towing is all about pulling a separate load that’s on its own wheels, whereas hauling means placing the weight directly onto your truck’s frame.
- That sticker on your driver’s side door jamb isn’t a suggestion, it holds the legally binding weight limits for your specific truck.
- GVWR is the maximum your truck, passengers, and cargo can weigh all together; GCWR is the grand total that includes the trailer, too.
- Don’t forget that the tongue weight from a trailer counts against your truck’s payload capacity.
- Pushing your rear axle ratings (GAWR) too far is one of the main reasons for dangerous tire blowouts.
- Essential gear like weight distribution hitches and brake controllers aren’t just nice to have; they’re vital for your safety and for staying on the right side of the law.
The Key Difference Between Pulling Power and Carrying Strength
While people often use the terms interchangeably, the mechanics behind towing and hauling are completely different. Towing is the act of pulling a load that’s behind your vehicle. This load is supported by its own set of wheels, and you connect it to your truck using a hitch system. Your truck provides the get-up-and-go and the stopping power, but the trailer itself is what bears the majority of the load’s weight.
Hauling, on the other hand, means you’re carrying cargo directly on your vehicle. You’re placing the load right in the truck bed or cargo area, so the full weight of that cargo is pressing down on your truck’s suspension, axles, and frame.
This fundamental difference changes everything about how you drive and how your vehicle handles the road. Towing affects your turning radius and how long it takes to stop. Hauling changes your truck’s center of gravity and how much your suspension can travel. Getting this distinction right is the foundation for every decision you make about managing a load.
How to Understand Key Truck Numbers
Truck manufacturers don’t offer suggestions; they set hard engineering limits. You’ll find these crucial limits on a sticker inside the driver’s side door jamb. Just open your door and look for the label titled “Tire and Loading Information.” This sticker contains the specific ratings for your exact truck, identified by its VIN.
It’s critical that you don’t use the numbers from a sales brochure or marketing website. Those figures often represent a “best-case scenario” for a base model truck. Your specific truck, with its comfy leather seats and heavy sunroof, will have its own unique limits.
GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating)
Think of the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) as the absolute ceiling. This is the maximum weight your vehicle can be, period. This number accounts for the curb weight of the truck itself, a full tank of gas, every passenger, any aftermarket accessories you’ve added, and all the cargo in the bed.
If you were to drive your fully loaded truck onto a scale, the number on the readout must never go above the GVWR. This is the single most important rating to check before you start loading up with supplies.
GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating)
The Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) is what governs your entire rig. This number represents the maximum allowable weight of your fully loaded truck plus your fully loaded trailer, combined.
To figure this out, you have to add up the weight of the truck, everyone inside, all the gear in the bed, and the trailer with its own cargo. If that grand total exceeds the GCWR, you’re operating in a danger zone where your transmission and brakes simply can’t handle the stress.
Payload Capacity
Payload capacity is probably the number most truck owners get wrong. It represents the maximum weight of all cargo, passengers, and equipment your vehicle can safely carry. This isn’t just about how much you can throw in the bed. You can calculate it with a simple formula: Payload Capacity = GVWR – Curb Weight.
If you look this up on a site like Edmunds, you’ll see that a common half-ton pickup often has a payload capacity somewhere between 1,500 and 2,500 pounds, while a beefy one-ton dually might handle over 7,500 pounds. Remember, every person you add to the cab directly reduces the amount of gravel you can safely put in the bed.
Tongue Weight
Tongue weight is the surprise that catches many drivers off guard. This is the downward force that the trailer’s coupler exerts on your truck’s hitch. What’s so important is that this weight is counted as part of your payload. You absolutely must subtract this number from your available payload capacity.
For example, let’s say your truck has a payload limit of 1,800 lbs. If you hook up a trailer that has a 900 lb tongue weight, you now have only 900 lbs of payload capacity left for yourself, your passengers, and any tools in the truck.
According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), a conventional trailer’s tongue weight should be about 10-15% of the total loaded trailer weight to be properly balanced. If you’re using a fifth-wheel or gooseneck setup, that pin weight should be between 15-25% of the total loaded trailer weight. Ignoring this math is a recipe for a sagging rear end and dangerously light steering.
GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating)
The Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) tells you the maximum weight allowed on any single axle. Your truck has a specific rating for the front axle and another for the rear. This number is all about proper load distribution. It’s possible to be under your total GVWR but still overload the rear axle by, for example, piling heavy bags of cement right at the tailgate.
A trailer’s tongue weight also adds significant pressure directly to that rear axle. Exceeding your rear GAWR is a primary cause of tire blowouts and can lead to a complete loss of steering control.
The Art of the Pull
Towing is all about applying force horizontally to your vehicle’s frame. Because of this, you need a connection point that can handle all that pulling and braking force without bending or breaking. Frame-mounted hitches are designed to provide this necessary strength.
Those simple bumper-pull hitches, which are often just holes drilled into the factory bumper, simply don’t have the structural integrity for anything heavy. You should always use a proper receiver that’s bolted directly to the truck’s chassis.
Conventional versus Fifth-Wheel Towing
Conventional towing uses a hitch receiver located at the back of the truck, usually below the bumper. This is the go-to method for things like boat trailers and most campers. Fifth-wheel or gooseneck towing, however, moves the attachment point up into the truck bed. This strategic placement puts the trailer’s pin weight directly over the rear axle, which dramatically improves stability and allows you to handle much heavier loads.
Data from the Ford Motor Company illustrates this difference perfectly. A light-duty truck like the F-150 might have a conventional towing capacity in the range of 8,000 to 13,500 pounds. But a heavy-duty truck like the F-350 can manage fifth-wheel capacities that exceed an incredible 35,000 pounds. The bed-mounted hitch setup minimizes trailer sway and creates a much tighter pivot point for turning.
Understanding Hitch Classes
Hitches are categorized into different classes based on their maximum weight rating. It’s essential to match your hitch class to the load you’re planning to pull.
- Class I hitches can handle up to 2,000 lbs.
- Class II hitches can handle up to 3,500 lbs.
- Class III hitches can handle up to 8,000 lbs.
- Class IV hitches can handle up to 10,000 lbs.
- Class V hitches are for anything over 10,000 lbs.
Always check the rating stamped on your receiver to ensure the metal won’t shear off under the immense stress of a heavy pull.
Mastering Hauling and Payload
Hauling is a true test of your truck’s suspension. Every pound you add compresses the springs and shock absorbers. If you push past your payload capacity, the suspension will bottom out, meaning there’s no travel left in the springs to soak up bumps in the road. Every jolt then transfers directly to the frame and, frankly, to your spine.
This kind of strain leads to premature wear and tear on your shocks, springs, and brakes. It also causes the front end of your truck to lift, which compromises your steering traction.
This is why managing the density of your cargo is so important. A cubic yard of gravel, for instance, weighs around 3,000 pounds. That one scoop from the loader is enough to overload nearly every half-ton truck out there. Remember, just because it fits in the bed doesn’t mean your truck can safely carry it.
Real-World Scenarios
Making the right choice between towing and hauling really comes down to the object’s weight, its dimensions, and your truck’s specific setup.
When to Choose Towing
You should always opt to tow items that are large, heavy, or self-contained. Basically, if it has wheels, it belongs on a hitch. Think RVs, boats, and other vehicles, they all require towing. Large pieces of construction equipment like excavators will need a sturdy flatbed trailer.
Consider that the average 25-foot travel trailer weighs about 5,500 pounds. There’s simply no way to put that in a truck bed. Towing allows this massive weight to be distributed across multiple axles, making it manageable.
When to Choose Hauling
You should haul loose materials that can be contained within the bed’s walls. Things like mulch, furniture, appliances, and smaller tools are perfect for hauling. A typical riding lawn mower weighs between 400 and 600 pounds, making it an ideal candidate for hauling, as long as you have a good set of ramps.
Just be mindful of dense materials. A single cubic yard of topsoil can weigh between 2,000 and 2,700 pounds. You’ll need a heavy-duty truck to haul that kind of weight safely.
Towing and Hauling Simultaneously
Very often, you’ll find yourself needing to do both at the same time. You might be towing a camper for a weekend getaway while also carrying firewood in the bed. This situation requires some careful math. You have to add the trailer’s tongue weight to the weight of the firewood and all your passengers.
That combined total cannot exceed your truck’s payload capacity. At the same time, the grand total weight of your truck and trailer must remain under the GCWR. It’s always a good idea to prioritize the payload calculation first, as that’s usually the limit you’ll reach first.
Essential Equipment for Safe Towing and Hauling
The right hardware is what keeps you safe on the road. Relying on rusty chains or old, frayed straps is just asking for a disaster.
Must-Have Towing Equipment
At a minimum, you’ll need a hitch receiver, a ball mount, and a trailer ball that are all properly rated for your load. Safety chains are mandatory in most places; they are your last line of defense, keeping the trailer attached if the hitch somehow fails. A wiring harness is also essential to make sure your trailer’s brake lights and turn signals work. A trailer brake controller is absolutely critical.
This device syncs the trailer’s own brakes with your truck’s brake pedal. In fact, many states legally require a brake controller for any trailer with a gross weight over 3,000 pounds.
For heavy travel trailers, you’ll want to use a weight distribution hitch. This clever device helps spread the tongue weight more evenly across all axles of both the tow vehicle and the trailer. Adding sway control bars will help prevent the trailer from fishtailing in crosswinds. You can count on trusted brands like CURT, B&W Trailer Hitches, Reese, and Tekonsha to offer reliable components that meet modern safety standards.
Must-Have Hauling Equipment
An unsecured load is a deadly hazard. You need heavy-duty ratchet straps or cam buckle tie-downs to lock your cargo in place. For lighter items, a good cargo net can prevent them from flying out at highway speeds. You should also protect your investment with a quality bed liner. Brands like Line-X or Rhino Linings do a great job of preventing scratches and rust.
A tonneau cover is also a great addition to protect your cargo from the weather and potential theft. When loading, always distribute the weight evenly. Keep the heaviest items low and as close to the cab as you can to maintain good steering traction. Look for quality gear from reputable brands like Rhino USA, Husky, Erickson, or BedRug.
At Five Star Towing, we understand the limits of machinery because we’re the ones who come to the rescue for those who push them too far. If you’re ever feeling unsure about a load, please don’t risk it. And when you do find yourself stuck on the side of a road in OKC, whether it’s from a breakdown or a blowout, we are the team you can count on. We promise to handle your vehicle with the professional respect it deserves.
Frequently Asked Questions
Payload capacity is the total weight a truck can carry in its cabin and bed, which includes both passengers and cargo. Towing capacity, on the other hand, is the maximum weight a truck is rated to pull behind it on a separate trailer.
According to the Ram Towing and Payload Capacity Guide, payload is figured out by subtracting the truck's curb weight from its Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). Towing capacity is determined by the Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) and depends heavily on the truck's specific setup, including its engine, axle ratio, and transmission.
Mixing these two up is a common and dangerous mistake. You might have a truck with a high towing capacity but a relatively low payload. If you load up the bed with heavy gear, you use up your allowance for trailer tongue weight, which could mean you're overloading the suspension even if the trailer itself is well within the towing limit.
Yes, absolutely. Tongue weight counts directly against your vehicle's payload capacity. Your truck's suspension feels that weight pushing down on it, just as it would a passenger or a bag of cement.
CURT Manufacturing explains that for a properly balanced and safe towing setup, the tongue weight should be about 10-15% of the gross trailer weight. So, if you're towing a 5,000-pound trailer, you can expect 500 to 750 pounds of pressure being applied to your hitch.
You have to subtract that 500-750 pounds from your truck's total payload rating. If your truck has a 1,500-pound payload, hooking up that trailer leaves you with only 750-1,000 pounds for fuel, passengers, and any other gear. Forgetting to do this math is a frequent reason drivers unknowingly exceed their GVWR.
Yes, you can certainly pull a trailer that weighs more than your payload capacity, but only as long as the trailer's tongue weight doesn't push you over that payload limit. A truck's towing capacity is almost always much higher than its payload capacity.
As Edmunds points out, a typical half-ton truck might have a payload of 2,000 pounds but be rated to tow 10,000 pounds. This works because the trailer's own wheels are supporting most of the trailer's weight, not the truck.
However, the real-world limiting factor is nearly always your payload. That 10,000-pound trailer will create roughly 1,000 to 1,500 pounds of tongue weight. This eats up most of the truck's payload capacity, leaving very little room for anything or anyone else in the truck. This means you have to balance that heavy tow load with a nearly empty truck.
Exceeding your payload capacity forces the suspension down to its mechanical limits, which results in poor handling, dangerously longer stopping distances, and the potential for catastrophic component failure.
MotorTrend highlights that overloading causes the rear of the truck to sag significantly, which in turn lifts the front wheels. This reduces your steering traction and points your headlights up into the eyes of oncoming drivers.
The long-term consequences can include blown tires, warped axles, and even shattered leaf springs. From a legal standpoint, operating a vehicle over its rated GVWR can void your insurance coverage and leave you liable if an accident occurs.
You can calculate your available payload by starting with the manufacturer's Payload Capacity (found on that door jamb sticker) and then subtracting the weight of everything you've added to the truck.
Ford Motor Company's 2023 Towing Guide advises that you must deduct the weight of the driver, all passengers, any aftermarket accessories (like toolboxes or push bars), and any cargo you've placed in the cab or bed.
The number you're left with is your true, available payload. So, if your sticker says your capacity is 1,800 lbs, but you have two 200 lb passengers and 100 lbs of tools, your actual remaining payload is now 1,300 lbs. That's the real limit for either your trailer's tongue weight or any additional cargo in the bed.
It is always better to tow a car using a proper car hauler or trailer rather than trying to haul it in a truck bed, which is physically impossible for most standard pickup trucks anyway.
The NHTSA guidelines on safe towing strongly recommend using a flatbed trailer or a tow dolly for transporting other vehicles. This ensures the car's weight is properly supported by the trailer's own braking and suspension systems.
Hauling a vehicle is only really feasible if you have a specialized flatbed or rollback truck, much like the ones we use at Five Star Towing. Trying to squeeze a car into a standard pickup bed is incredibly unsafe and would far exceed both payload and dimension limits.
GVWR stands for Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, and it represents the absolute maximum allowable weight of the entire vehicle when it is fully loaded.
Ram Trucks defines this as the curb weight of the vehicle plus its total payload capacity. This all-encompassing number includes the chassis, body, engine, fuel, accessories, driver, passengers, and all cargo.
Think of it as a safety ceiling meticulously set by engineers. It's their guarantee that the frame and brakes can safely handle the total mass. You should always treat the GVWR as the absolute, non-negotiable limit for the truck itself, regardless of what it might be pulling.
You can legally haul an amount of weight that is equal to or less than your truck's specific payload capacity, which is listed on the Tire and Loading Information sticker in your door jamb.
Edmunds clarifies that this number can vary widely even within the same model, depending on the trim level. A basic work truck might be able to haul more than a luxury model simply because all the fancy options (like sunroofs and power seats) add to the curb weight, which in turn reduces the available payload.
Legally, law enforcement can issue a citation for exceeding your GVWR or GAWR (axle ratings). Commercial vehicle enforcement officers often use
Yes, every single passenger counts towards your payload. To your truck's suspension, there's no difference between a bag of concrete and a person.
MotorTrend emphasizes that the "max payload" rating you see advertised usually assumes only a full tank of gas and a 150-pound driver (this can vary by manufacturer). Every additional person or item you add subtracts directly from that capacity.
If you have a work crew of four large men who weigh a combined 1,000 pounds, and your truck's payload capacity is 2,000 pounds, you've effectively cut your cargo-carrying ability in half before you've even put a single tool in the bed.
Generally speaking, GVWR is more important because it's the limit you are most likely to hit first in real-world situations.
CURT Manufacturing suggests that while big towing capacity numbers make for great commercials, it's the payload (which is derived from the GVWR) that acts as the real bottleneck. You will typically run out of what your suspension can handle (payload) long before you run out of what your engine can pull (towing capacity).
If you make sure to stay within your GVWR, you can be confident that your chassis and tires are operating safely. Focusing only on the towing capacity often leads people to overload the hitch and rear axle, creating a dangerously unstable and unsafe ride.
A fifth-wheel setup typically increases a truck's practical towing capacity because it places the trailer's pin weight directly over the rear axle, instead of hanging it off the rear bumper.
The Ford F-150 Towing Guide clearly shows that fifth-wheel and gooseneck configurations allow for significantly higher tow ratings compared to conventional bumper pulling. This is because the truck remains far more stable and maneuverable with the weight in this position.
This setup drastically reduces the "lever effect" that a bumper hitch can create, which allows the truck to safely support more pin weight. It’s the reason why heavy commercial transport and large RVs exclusively use fifth-wheel or gooseneck hitches.
No, hauling is the action of carrying something, while payload is the measurement of how much you are allowed to haul.
Ram Trucks draws a clear line between the two: Hauling is the verb (the thing you are doing), while Payload is the noun (the limit of what you can do safely).
For instance, you haul a load of lumber. The weight of that lumber must be within your truck's payload capacity. Understanding this terminology helps you communicate clearly with suppliers when you're buying heavy materials like gravel or soil.
Curb weight is what your truck weighs when it's empty, while GVWR is the maximum your truck is allowed to weigh when it's full.
Edmunds defines curb weight as the vehicle as it came from the factory, with all of its standard equipment and necessary fluids (including a full tank of gas), but with no passengers or cargo on board.
The difference between these two key numbers is your payload. The formula is simple: GVWR - Curb Weight = Payload. Knowing your truck's curb weight helps you understand how much "truck" you're already moving around before you even start to put it to work.
